writings on the wall

Dar es Salaam

This tag is associated with 19 posts

Between social media and ignorance, what is there?

Dar es Salaam, Tanzania has flooded. If this is the first time you hear the news, you might say “ok” and continue as if it never happened. “After all, there was just a huge flooding in the Philippines, which was all over the news. Dar es Salaam hasn’t even been mentioned, the flooding can’t be … Continue reading

“Thin line ‘tween heaven and here”

The quote in the title was uttered by Bubbles, a recovering drug addict, when being returned home to the ghetto after having spent a day in suburban Baltimore, USA in the TV-series The Wire (highly recommend it by the way). Looking at the above map of a small (200x300m) area in Namanga, Dar es Salaam, … Continue reading

Urban transport dreams

African cities are walking cities, but are they walkable? ‘No’ was the immediate answer that came to my mind, but the title of the Walkonomics/This Big City blog post made me curious enough to read more. According to it, walking is “the most popular form of transport” in urban Africa. Realistic enough, there are millions … Continue reading

Malaika, my love

A beach bar of many names, from early Dar Alive and Malaika to the latest Mbalamwezi Beach Club, somehow Malaika is still the most suiting name for a pretty place (and easiest/shortest to pronounce). Swahili for ‘angel’. Just 5 minutes away from my home in Mikocheni lay a little paradise. Malaika is quite easy to miss … Continue reading

Now craving: Ethiopian food

Doro wot (chicken in sautéed red onions, oil and berbere (chili) sauce), tibs (sautéed beef with onions, tomatoes, garlic and chili), yebeg alicha (mild lamb stew) and many more dishes wrapped around a piece of injera (sour pancake) and eaten with your bare hands. Sharing food at its best. And for dessert: strong Ethiopian coffee and popcorn. … Continue reading


”[W]ould it be too much to ask for people to look at the African city and see more than just poverty?”. Nanjala Nyabola makes a valid point in her article ‘The African city in European eyes’ accessible here on the Pambazuka website (which is by the way a great resource of opinion pieces and articles … Continue reading

Football fever

I went to my first Premier League game yesterday. Football is big in Africa as most people are aware of, and it won’t take long before you know whether you’re dealing with an Arsenal, Chelsea, Manchester United or the occasional Liverpool or Barcelona fan, judging by the shirt, accessories of the person or by the … Continue reading

Explosions in the sky

Written 16.2.2011 at 11:30pm After a nice Ethiopian meal me and my friend waddle through the narrow lanes of Namanga to the bajaj stands. On the way my friend pays attention to some strange sounds in the air, but I just assume it’s a car bumping away with a loud bass. When I get my … Continue reading

Marvelous machingas

I think I’ve seen everything now. The creativity of salesmen here in Dar never fails to amaze me, and I’m beginning to doubt there’s anything you can’t buy on the street. During the first few weeks here I marvelled at the machingas (Swahili word for ‘marching guys’ aka street sellers) shuffling their coins while screaming … Continue reading

A guide to eating lunch in Dar

1. When hunger strikes in Dar, head your steps towards the end of Garden Avenue in the city centre, near the Botanical Gardens. There are four street kitchens to choose from, sitting side by side, but be sure to choose the one and only original Holiday Out, its name derived from once being seated opposite … Continue reading

All writings on the wall

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